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The Chicago River
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In 1885, a cholera and typhoid epidemic killed thousands when sewage was washed into Lake
Michigan, the source of drinking water for the city. By 1890 the Chicago Sanitary District succeeded in
reversing the flow of the Chicago River to divert sewage away from Lake Michigan. The Chicago
River System is more than 150 miles long, has one island, and was the source of
an underground flood in April 1992 that created a nightmare in the subterranean Chicago Loop.
The Chicago River has always been a dirty river, but it has been recently upgraded from toxic to
very polluted. This condition is improving all the time.
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The Chicago River presents an amazing glimpse into the hustle and bustle that is Chicago. Best of all
it offers the opportunity to view all forms of transportation available in Chicago, including
elevated trains, busy automotive traffic on all the bridges, pedestrians along the newly designed
parks and pathways, jet planes moving silently overhead, and, of course, all sorts of water vessels.
Every March the Chicago River is dyed greet for the St. Patrick’s Day celebrations.
South Branch
The South Branch of the Chicago River begins at Damen Avenue. The properties along this segment
of the river are largely industrial. As you pass the Ashland Avenue bridge, the river widens into
the U.S. Turning Basin. The south fork off this turning basin is Bubbly Creek. In the 1860’s this creek
became a sewer for the Union Stockyards. This noxious waterway was filled with carcasses and manure,
so much so that it sometimes caught fire. Just past Canal Street to the south is the Chinatown Square,
noticeable by pagodas with red roofs.
We feel the downtown Chicago River segment begins with River City, a unique residential building
and marina. Bertrand Goldberg, the same designer behind the Marina City complex, designed this
structure. The no-wake zone begins here and continues throughout the rest of the South Branch
and Main Stem of the Chicago River.
Marina Name |
River City Marina |
| Address |
800 S. Wells Street |
| |
Chicago, IL 60607 |
| Phone Number |
312-431-2800 |
| Web Site |
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| Email Address |
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| Directions by car |
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| Directions by boat |
South branch of the Chicago River |
Hours of Operation |
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| 64 docks |
Grocery store |
| Beauty salon |
Shuttle service |
| Laundry facilities |
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Looming overhead is the Sears Tower, which was the tallest building in the world before the
construction of the twin Petronas Towers In Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. The Sears Tower measures
1,454 feet high, a stunning total of 110 stories. On the opposite side of the river is Union Station,
one of the major railroad stations in Chicago. The skyscrapers soar on either side of the river.
You will also notice buildings built on “air rights” over railroad tracks.
Coming up on the right just past the Madison Street Bridge is the Civic Opera House,
which, along with several other office buildings along this section of the river, was built with
its back to the river. This was due to the poor quality of the river in the past. Although the
city has a long way to go in making this a clear waterway, the river is getting healthier every year.
After this point in the river, you will begin to see a more river-friendly environment. The city has
recently been adding walkways and parks to the riverbanks as part of the beautification process
ongoing in Chicago.
Next up is the Forks, which is the junction between the main stem, north branch, and south branch
of the Chicago River. The north corner, Wolf Point, is the location of the Apparel Center with a
Holiday Inn on the upper floor. A new high-rise condominium building dominates the west side of
the Forks. Turn right and you enter the main stem of the Chicago River; continue heading north and
you enter the North Branch of the Chicago River (see the section after the Main Stem).
Main Stem
Upon turning east into the main stem of the Chicago River, you encounter the Merchandise Mart on the
north bank. The 333 West Wacker Driver Building with its mirrored face is situated on the south bank
of the river.
The second bridge on the main stem of the river is the Wells Street bridge. This part of the river is the
location of the Eastland disaster. On July 24, 1915, almost 7,000 employees of the Western Electric Company
lined the docks to board several passenger boats for a trip to Michigan City for their annual picnic. By
7:30 that morning over 2,000 people had boarded the Eastland when it began to list to starboard, then
to port. At 7:50 the boat overturned, sweeping thousands of passengers into the water and trapping
thousands more inside the cabins below. A total of 844 passengers (men, women, and children --
in many cases, entire families) perished in one of the most horrifying water disasters in history.
Just past Dearborn Street are the corncob-shaped buildings that constitute Marina
City, otherwise known as Marina Towers. Restaurants located in this complex are House of Blues and
Smith & Wollensky’s. Although there are docks under these towers, there are no transient docks
available; therefore, you cannot enjoy these restaurants while on your boat. There also used to be a
fueling dock but it is no longer operational.
Pioneer Court is an open space between the Tribune Tower and the Equitable Building. The Michigan
Avenue Bridge was the first double-decker bascule bridge ever built. There are four sculptures on
each bridge house, symbolizing some of Chicago’s history. They are titled The Discoverers,
The Pioneers, Defense, and Regeneration.
Located just east of the Michigan Avenue Bridge, the Illinois Center is the largest planned
development in the U.S.A. It spans 83 acres on air rights and was built in 1971. Opposite the
Illinois Center on the north side of the river is the Cityfront Center, which is another mixed-use
environment spanning 40 acres. The Cityfront Center complex includes the Sheraton Hotel and the
NBC Tower.
The River East development is a combination of residential buildings and park settings. The beautiful
river walk is centered around the Melas Fountain. This fountain has a water cannon that shoots a
huge arc of water across the river for 10 minutes every hour on the hour. A boater’s warning:
This is no gentle shower – if you cruise under this water bridge you will get VERY wet. There is a
short audible warning before the water is released.
Just east of the last bridge (Lake Shore Drive Bridge) on the Chicago River is the Ogden Slip.
Originally built for commercial traffic, this slip has been reduced in size and the banks are now lined with
lovely townhouses, restaurants, and office complexes. This is the only spot in downtown Chicago
to dock your boat for a short time to enjoy a meal or drink. Dick’s Last Resort (312-836-7870),
a wild, loud, and wacky restaurant, offers temporary docking at the rate of $20 per hour. However,
if you go there before Memorial Day or very late in the season, it is often free to tie your boat
up and have a bite to eat. Another option is to call ahead to order your food. The end of Ogden
Slip is a touch-and-go location. Nose up to this corner of the slip and have a passenger jump off,
run into Dick’s, and pick up your food order. When they return, you can just touch your bow to the
dock again, allowing your food gopher to jump back on board.
Immediately east of the Ogden Slip is the Chicago Lock. The Chicago Lock is one of the easiest and
quickest lock systems on the Illinois waterways. Although commercial and government vessels do have
the right of way, there are few of these involved in each lock procedure. All passengers on your boat
must be wearing a life vest. You will be ticketed if you do not follow this regulation. Be sure to
place fenders on at least one side of your boat as you will be required to secure your boat to either
the lock walls or another boat. The gates will open, but you must wait for the exiting boats to leave.
You will receive the signal to enter the lock by a loud horn and a green light. As mentioned above,
you must wait until the commercial vehicles enter the lock. Passage into this lock is usually well
ordered and polite. You are expected to move as far to the front as possible. There are fixed ropes
hanging on the sides of the lock. Use your boat hook on one of the railings that top the lock sides
and pull your boat over to the wall. If your boat is small, you can just hold onto the attached ropes.
After everyone has entered the lock and all boats have been secured, they will close the river gate and
open the lake gates slightly, allowing for water to flow into the lock until the water in the lock is
at lake level. Last year (2004) the lake was only a few feet above the river. Once again you must
wait for the signal to leave. Boats leave the lock at no-wake speed. Any speeds over wake level
will probably result in a ticket.
Welcome to Lake Michigan!
North Branch
Starting from the Turning Basin directly south of North Avenue, you can see Goose Island on the east
side of the river. This is dirtiest part of the river but attempts are being made to remedy this
situation. Goose Island is an artificial island that was created while digging clay for brick
making during the mid-1800’s. This process created the North Branch Canal, which is no longer
navigable. Goose Island is the site for various manufacturing plants and the newest boat yard
in Chicago.
Directly south of the Turning Basin is a riverfront restaurant/bar called Slow Down Life’s Too Short
(1117 N Elston Avenue, Chicago, IL 60622). This is one of the best stops on the river
and the only one with free docking. Even though the docking area is ridiculously short, a team of
enthusiastic dock assistants will help you dock or raft your boat to any other boats already docked.
They will even move a boat from the interior of the raft pack without disturbing the other boat owners.
This multi-story building has lots of outdoor dining with great views of the river - not much else
because this area is highly industrial. Life’s Too Short has good food at reasonable prices with
friendly service. Unfortunately, the restaurant and docks were closed in 2004. Word on the Internet is that
there are plans to reopen this fun watering hole sometime in 2007.
Southeast of Halsted, the old Montgomery Ward buildings have been rehabbed into expensive condominium
residential buildings. This begins the no wake zone that continues throughout the Chicago River
and its branches in downtown Chicago until you reach the River City Marina on the South Branch.
The Kinzie Street Bridge was the source of Great Chicago Flood in 1992 when workers driving
piles penetrated an underground tunnel and flooded freight tunnels and basements throughout the Loop.
The odd residential building on the west bank just south of Kinzie Street is the River Cottages.
Be sure to take a look at this unusual architecture.
At this point you will connect with the Forks, the Y-shaped junction between the North, South,
and Main branches of the Chicago River.
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